Siding/Cedar Siding, Decks, Walkways, Gutters, Commercial Property and more!
We are a, Eco~friendly company specializing in the removal of Black Mold/Algae, Moss and Lichen from asphalt and cedar shingles. Many home and business owners have noticed this unsightly build up which devours and damages shingles. Cleaning will help to restore the intended life and beauty (curb appeal) of the roof.This is a practical alternative to costly shingle replacement. Cost of shingles continues to rise along with labor and disposal fees. Cleaning will satisfy most Home Inspectors and Insurers of Homeowners' Policies. Insurance carriers are canceling polices due to Black Mold/Algae, Moss and Lichen on the roof. Protect your investment!
NO PRESSURE WASHING
YEAH, BUT THEY USE THE “LOW PRESSURE, HIGH VOLUME” METHOD.
Oh pulleeeze! We have been restoring and maintaining cedar roofs since 1991 and that is a reply we’ve started hearing in the last few years. The reason people are being told that is simple. The pressure washers are tired of hearing the person on the other end of the phone say, “I don’t want my roof pressure washed.” I’m sure you’ve heard horror stories of pressure washing damage and leaks caused. If not, call me and I can tell you a bunch of them. Rest assured, the ones you’ve heard and the ones I can tell you are all true.
I am the first to acknowledge that there are some good, conscientious power washers out there who are careful and know what they are doing. There are a lot more incompetent and/or inexperienced people using the machines. But whoever ends up on your roof with one, there is no denying the simple physics of the process: There is a person up there with a water gun which is putting out anywhere form 6 to 30+ gallons per minute of water under 1500 (to the pressure washers, that’s ‘Low Pressure’) to 3500 lbs. per square inch of pressure at point blank range all day long. Your garden hose is only about 100 psi and it will peel paint! (The amount of traffic on the roof needed to do so is a separate but relevant issue) After you’ve heard all the claims and “pitches” (mine and theirs both), the simple fact is this: these roofs are not built for that – they are built to be rained on.
It gets “When wood is exposed to the effects of sunlight and moisture, its surface begins to change. This change is both physical and chemical, and is commonly called weathering. The color will change first. The initial change from reddish brown to silvery gray is the result of the ultraviolet rays from the sun. This usually happens fairly quickly – well within the first year. Gradually the roof will take on a darker gray color. This indicates that your roof is being colonized by microfungi. Your roof is steadily becoming .”
As the roof continues to age, the surface and sharp edges are eroded by abrasive particles carried by wind and water, and by continued exposure to heat and cold. Wood destroying organisms continue to slowly degrade the shingle’s surface and edges. The roof no longer looks new. Debris from trees may be accumulating in the valleys and between the shakes. After each rain, these areas will remain moist longer. Because of the moist conditions, other plants soon begin to grow, primarily lichens and mosses. Your roof is now “and its deterioration will rapidly accelerate.
Moss and fungus growing on your roof does double damage: (1) During a rain, it retards the shedding of water, which promotes leaks and (2) After the rain stops, it prevents the surface from drying, which further encourages the growth of wood-rotting organisms.
Leaves, needles and other debris which is allowed to accumulate has these same two harmful effects. In addition, the debris increases the fire danger to your roof. There are several ways you may choose to deal with this debris and I would be glad to go over them with you. The point is, you must deal with it or your roof will rot away at a surprising rate.
MAINTENANCE REPAIRS — WHY, HOW MANY AND WHEN?
Especially if yours is the original roof, you can pretty much bet that is was not installed by the high bidder. There is a different mentality in new construction than there is in reroofing. What that means is that in new construction in particular, they do not spend ten cents they don’t – have to. So when the installers are slamming the shakes on and they come across a piece of flat-grain, a “blow-out”, a thin one or a short one – all problems that should cause that shake to be thrown on the ground – ka-blam! Onto the roof it goes. So when someone proudly tells you that they are using #1 Grade shakes, don’t get all warm and fuzzy about that. About 15% of each bundle can be substandard, or more accurately – firewood. For the most part, those bad pieces will hang in there and be pretty much OK for about 8 years give or take a couple of years; sometimes a couple of years more, depending on the roof’s exposure and pitch. Then the flat-grain begins to break up and the thin ones begin to wear through in the keyways, exposing the paper underneath. So these are the focus of our Maintenance Repairs and in most cases they consist of two bundles or so biannually unless we need to be a bit more aggressive in the beginning to get ‘caught up.’ By the way, we use only Premium Shakes for our repairs – no flat-grain, no ‘blow-outs’ or thin ones. We will always try to err on the conservative side because just the act of doing repairs is a lot of banging and stomping around on the roof and to limit the expense because, as you remember, there is always one more shake to replace.
HOW LONG WILL IT LAST?
We will continue the process described above until we show up one year and get a sense that we’re not gaining ground any more. Then we stop and talk. Generally it is not much of a challenge to get 20+ years out of a medium shake roof and 30+ years for heavies, provided it is maintained as appropriate. I have personally been on two roofs that were over 40 years old and doing great. I have also been on 12 year-old roofs that were pretty much firewood. The choice is yours.